Mister Rusty
Last weekend was the first public display using my system of magnets and Kadee couplers. Reliability was 100%, only missed decouples were operator-inspired, mainly me.
The system uses a sandwich of 2 neodymium magnets placed just under the rail.

15561456193644614986462826968044.jpg 

There are 2 magnets under each rail - 1mm and 0.5mm. With code 75, it was found that 2mm was too much and 1mm insufficient. They are cyano-glued to the bottom of the rail. Watching a wagon do a head-stand over too strong a magnet may be amusing, but it's  not very prototypical.
To fit them, a single sleeper was removed to create the space, the magnets align each other as a sandwich, one sandwich being cyano-glued to a strip of card, the other being glued once the first had set. A balsa spacer was used to keep the magnets apart whilst the second pair set.
Slide them under the rails and shim them up to touch the rails, then cyano-glued to hold the position.
It has ben found that this format deflects the couplings further than the standard Kadee arrangement, giving a much more positive decouple. This also gives a far better "push" scenario for placing decoupled wagons elsewhere.
15561465381454191082384522724041.jpg 
2 further adjustments to optimise the couplers is to ensure the droppers are out of sight when looked at from above, and all couplers are jig-checked for clearances and alignments. With Kadees, the one mantra that l have is "Near enough is not good enough".
In operation, the technique is to use notch 1 on approach, tapping direction change over the magnets twice with a slight pause.  Our success rate was better than 95% first time. The only issues came from a mal-adjusted and untested 2-coach set, due to be overhauled this week, they took3 or 4 attempts, but through no fault of this set-up.
Wagon bounce, prevalent with Kadee's magnets is non-existent, no run-over issues have been noted so far, either.
All-in-all, a worthwhile exercise. 
And cheap  compared to Kadee's magnetic slab  offering 😉
15561475752623630859663574384306.jpg  1556147812901865319161420964284.jpg  15561478424039103649789938968518.jpg  15561478800269105720912345774363.jpg Damn video won't  work
The extra missing sleepers in these shots were deliberate as l set up to increase the magnetic footprint by using  a second row of magnets, but this has not proved necessary.
Some of this post duplicates an earlier one, however the info in here is now tested and proven during the recent show.
Hope it helps someone.

Why?
Simples!
Buchshee was purposely modified to allow an Inglenook shunting operation to be carried out, whilst running a passenger service at the same time. This demonstrates the use of of dcc very well, imho.
All the best
Pete











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Bunkerbarge
Superb Peter and a great explanation.  I must admit seeing a number of shows in recent years that coupling and uncoupling can be a bit of a challenge for some of the layouts and the whole positive impact of the experience can be lost as you hang around waiting for someone to couple up a wagon with a piece of bent wire on the end of a pocket torch! 

Buchshee must have looked slick, professional and maintained the audience interest throughout the show, no mean feat and a great credit to you.
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Traction Inspector
Sorry if posted before.  Are the magnet polarities reversed or are they the same both sides?
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SmallScenes
No mention of drawing a very slow train over the magnets. Usually where very positive lateral magnetic pulls are
experienced trains break when you don't want them to. A short train of 3 or 4 wagons is always the problem child
in this respect.

Geoff T.
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Mister Rusty
TI 
Balsa spacer was to stop the 2 sets pulling together whilst setting, so 
NIS   NIS  with l being the rail.
Geoff T.
The narrow maximum magnetic field is around 4mm, so slow pull-through decoupling is not an issue.
I am yet to experience it either during development or exhibition operation,  whereas it used to drive me batty on the previous installation using Kadee's tombstones. 
One reason is that axle attraction is minimised.
Works for us, anyhow. Ã°Å¸Ëœâ€°Ã°Å¸Ëœâ€ž
And we were operating under Inglenook rules. 
Just did not misbehave at all, once a little sighting practice had been undertaken.

Pete
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Peter Pocock
I've been using Kadees since the late 1960's! I think I've tried all sorts of uncoupling methods but sometimes the slight sideways thinking causes a "ah ha" moment! You have just given me that moment. Well done on your idea, I can't wait to start retro fitting my set up.
Pete
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Mister Rusty
Peter,
Thanks for your post and comments.
May l suggest that you try the set-up on some spare track to confirm that it is indeed a mod that suits you.

I would not suggest that anyone should blindly modify their layout without first trialling the system.

All the best
Pete 
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Aussiedave
Mr. Rusty, thank you for your post and what an excellent idea ! So reading your text I take it that two magnets, 1mm and 0.5mm thicknesses are glued together then placed under either rail? Also what diameter magnets do you suggest? On the market are 5mm, 8mm and 10mm dia available.
cheers Aussiedave
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Mister Rusty
Hi Dave
Being Chinese neodymium magnets, you have trouble keeping them apart, so no glue needed to stick them together. 😉
I cut a piece of stiff card with the rail gauge marked on. I put one pair centred over the line with a dab of superglue underneath, this sets quite quickly. I then place a spacer between the two stacks as magnetic attraction tries to make the four magnets into one stack!! If the card is too thin, I have known them succeed. It hurt 😚.
While the glue is drying, just simply slice the track shoes off a sleeper, then cut the under-rail ties and pull the sleeper out leaving an approx 11mm gap, then slide the card and magnets underneath the rail, shim it[with card] until the magnets touch the rail and apply further superglue.
Job done.
Cosmetically, a paper [or thin card] sleeper can be added to disguise where the uncoupling points are, but believe me, you will then be deciding how to mark where they are. 😆 I paint and camouflage mine to match the ballast.
My two-penn'orth is to mark the operator's rail side with Tipp-Ex [white correcting fluid] at the centre of the disc, for uncoupler placement.
I use 10mm neodymium, as these give an effective max strength magnetic footprint of around 4mm.
Incidentally, the fake card or paper sleeper should be in sections , not between the magnets and rail.Even this small gap can reduce effectiveness.
I do seriously suggest about 750mm of track on a board as a test track. It can further be useful with a Kadee height jig to test the fit, maintenance and adjustment of the stock. With  the magnet test done in the centre, 2 items of stock can be checked over the magnets, the stock turned upside-down between the rails for servicing the axles etc; including wheel cleaner as well. i find it surprisingly useful on my workbench.
You may find that code 100 [or 83] may dictate 2mm of magnets, but as I buy mine 25 at a time, and they attract each other, it's easy to experiment.
All the best
And please keep us appraised of your progress and layout.
Photos always appreciated.😉
Pete
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Aussiedave
I forgot to mention, that I too have code 75 on my layout. (Old age creeping up).
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Mister Rusty
Dave
You'll find 2mm lift the sleepers off the baseboard (just) well, it does with Peco Streamline 
Pete
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Aussiedave
Thanks Rusty for your quick reply and all your advice. My track is also Peco Streamline code 75. I’ll let you know how I get on.
cheers David 
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Brunel273
Very interesting-the 1 mm magnets seems easy to source on Amazon. The 0.5mm appears another matter.. Can you advise your supplier- I live in South Africa do need to order on line.Brian
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Peter Rust Rusty Pete
Hi there
I popped online and found that there are now 1.5mm magnets available, these are the optimal strength, - 1mm too weak for 100% reliability, 2mm and the wagons[UK 4-wheelers nose-dive!!]
eBay item number:
162495861544
But do check China - direct supply to you may be cheaper 😉
I have ballasted my small 4 wheelers as suggested on various sites, my optimum is 50 - 60gms. l find that re-coupling is even more reliable, as the increased inertia helps buckeye deflection, prior to movement, yet does not affect decoupled performance when shunting.
Hope the above is of help
Pete
 
More than one way to skin a cat ðŸ˜‰
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Brunel273

Dear Pete-

Thank  you very much!

Excellent point and I have now ordered!

I think your point on weight is well made.  NMRA recommend1 ounce for each wagon plus .0.5 of an ounce per inch in wagon length. That’s 28g plus 14 g per inch ( approx 25 g )  so a standard PO wagon is about 16 feet (64mm) accross headstocks and should weigh in about 60 g which pits you spot on! 


Brian

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