Lazygrangebay
I have a need. 
After finishing the cannel locks and warf. I have a need of a wearhouse to store the slippers made in the village mill..
The postion of the wearhouse is in the trinangle space below..20180727_084254.jpg 
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Lazygrangebay
Its raised up as i want differnt hights in the landscape...my railway is g scale and outdoors...raised up as its easyer for me to work on and enjoy...
Having a set space dictated the sizes and shape ..and as in life not everything is square and true..
My prefered building material to use is 3 mm thick white foambord..love this stuff. Easy to use and work with..
I started by drawing what i want to see onto the right sizesd sheet of foambord. 
20180823_133632.jpg 
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Lazygrangebay
Which led to a problem.. windows..or my lack of them.. previously i had used 
Jacksons Minitures windows 
Or old pola kit windows i had aquired
But the box of bit was bear in the window department aside from 3 old pola ones.. which means i need to learn how to mould windows and cast them.. currently looking on evilbay for a casting kit..
Or do i try and hand make 26 windows buy hand? IMG-20180824-WA0008.jpeg 
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Jaz Avalley JazAvalley
look forward to your decision, lovely work as usual. Does Linka make a mold that would help? Would plaster be too heavy?

Jaz Avalley

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Black Billy
So, if I understand you right: you scratch build your model buildings for all-weather living outside all year round. And the foam board you mention has proved to stand up to the elements without decomposing.

SO for windows I suggest you google ones (brass would be weatherproof) patterned on the C19 small paned cast iron shallow arched industrial type (both vertically and horizontally proportioned) that would survive outside. There is of course the increasingly popular laser cut such as York models make. I see they offer suitable patterns in Rowmark which is a plastic for outdoor signs .
As for prototypes - one of my favourite pre railway age  examples is this one on the Peak Forest canal at Marple by Samuel Oldknow

Marple.jpg 
I see your triangle is not related to the water as is this, but nevertheless the style holds good (from the door height on the towpath I'd judge floor to floor height to be 3M, checking also with the loading doors under the hoist. You might decide it would be easier modelled in brick - nearby brick ones at Ashton are a rustic coloured common (not pressed or cut).
HTH
dh
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Lazygrangebay
Wow..thanks for that...
Its a fantastic building and not far of my idea either.. great minds think alike or fools seldom differ..but i will gladly borrow ideas...😎
Had a breakthrough this weekend at the lanfair garden railway show ..a german trader had some wonderfull windows for sale...not windows 10..
Which means i can start20180903_150711.jpg 
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Lazygrangebay
Marking out mortor lines 5mm apart..in pencil..cut openings out for large windows..try it in position..although its not in its actual position as its just proped up..it should be futher forward..single track road infront of it..so 6inch further forward? 
20180905_123956.jpg 20180905_124106.jpg 
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Lazygrangebay
Happy with the size over all and its position. Time to mark out 5mm vertical lines . I scribe across them with a 5mm bladed flat headed screwdriver to score in the *mortor lines* ...i then start adding each brick ect with the end of the screw driver..
20180906_151731.jpg 20180906_151742.jpg 20180906_151709.jpg 
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Lazygrangebay
Its not a race..its a adventure..lol
Never go faster that you can think.
Plodding on..and heres the tools used..nothing fancey20180911_111211.jpg 20180911_111250.jpg 
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Stuart Birks StuartB
Ah, the delights of a large scale, a really lovely wall. I have tried a similar process for 4mm but never achieved a result that I have been happy with.

Stuart
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