I'm planning to use these sleepers at my baseboard joints, but don't have any clear idea how best to secure the sleeper to the baseboard.  Perhaps pre-drilling a couple of holes and then pinning the sleepers would be the most secure?

Any advice gratefully received.

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What do you mean by pre-etched, are they the copper clad types? Neat PVA is usually strong enough for most applications and probably has as much grip as standard track pins, depending on what they are stuck into.

One thing to bear in mind.  If you are considering the effects of knocking the exposed track and therefore want to secure it more rigidly you can end up making it so ridgid that you bend the track if you knock it.  You might consider it the better of the two evils to displace the track if it gets knocked and simply have to stick it back down again rather than have to deal with a bent track.

Or, best of all, make some sort of transport guard that sits over the exposed track while the layout is in transit.  This might be nothing more than a batten of wood with a slot cut into it to sit over the track ends held in place with a couple of dowels.
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Bunkerbarge, thanks for the reply and sage advice.  The sleepers are actually a DCC concepts product, a bit like pre-etched copper clad sleepers, however they come with two "solder pads" in appropriate locations so are easier to install and are already electrically isolated.  They are also extremely robust.

There's also complete point kits for those more adventurous than I.

As I'm not planning to break up or move the baseboards on a regular basis, I am simply planning a few years ahead of a likely house move, the use of neat PVA or latex glue sounds like a sound one.  Come the day of the move, a basic guard should suffice.

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We have successfully used PVA glue for this purpose rather than drilling and pinning. They're very easy to fit and very robust :-) 
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As they are right on the edge of the board, I tend to use Araldite epoxy. However, on our exhibition modular layout we have drilled elongated holes in the copperclad sleepers, and use small screws, so that we can alter the alignment just a little if one module is a bit out of kilter from the other. That way, we can also alter the rail height at the join just a fraction if needed. 
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Peter Rust Rusty Pete
Fit DCCconcepts dowels, superglue the track over the joint, ballast it, cut it.
Because the sleeper base is moulded, the sleepers are not square cut, but tapered. By using superglue, which come sup the sides of the sleeper, it forms a sort of dove-tail joint, holding the track very tightly.
In over 50 set-ups and downs, no issue has occurred with the track.
Th etrack can be released, if necessary by using a flexible steel scraper flat along the board.
I do not slue points, merely the adjacent track, and that only in spots to hold alignment.
Very fast, no need to wait for PVA to dry, no pin deformation of sleepers, either.
More than one way to skin a cat ðŸ˜‰
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