Andrew Fryer deepfat
The title says it all.  I have two niggles:
  • I don't use the supplied screws to hold my SS motors in position rather some from the set of mini screws and drill bit kit from DCC concepts.  Why I can't find a screwdriver to screw them down (and yes I have the DCC concepts screwdriver kit) 
  • I find the motors bind if screwed down too hard is that me doing something wrong.
Otherwise all is good in the loft now that my last DIP motors arrived Note I only use SS motors because I have been a prat and ended up with beams under some of my points ðŸ˜³
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Bunkerbarge
After a lot of playing around with SS motors over the last three years, only a couple of months ago I tried slackening off the screws until they allowed a very slight movement of the motor unit.  They have worked much better ever since.  I use the screws that come with the motor and usually only put two in, one in a hole and one in the opposite slot.  This is to allow a small degree of play in the drive linkage which helps to avoid any binding at the end of the travel, which can sometimes lead to stalling.  Some people suggest incorporating an omega shape in the drive for the same reason but I was apprehensive about trying to fit it while remaining scale looking.  Then I discovered slackening the screws seems to be a big help.
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AHJAY
As BB said, and we also recommend frequently, you should not over tighten the screws. It is just not necessary and you can easily twist the case - always small things need gentle approaches. There is no need for an omega loop ever - but you MUST use te fine wire we supply or not use anything over 0.2mm thickness

Ahjay
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mvwilson
Had the same problem on some of mine. I've been using good quality double sided tape. It works well allows a small, amount of movement in the motor.
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Andrew Fryer deepfat
ah so my fault for not reading the manual. I like the stick pads but I am still going with screws. To quote Geoffrey de Havilland "never glue without a screw" which also sums up my approach to dip motors as those sticky pads don't always take on ply
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AHJAY
With the iP pads, they will always take if you first paint the area. Bare wood is never good for self adhesive pads.

With the area painted (sealed) with any old spare bit of wall paint etc, use both the pads and screws but just leave the screws in for a day - then removing them. We have motors in place for years when done like that. Doing it that way also lowers sond levels.

See P4 of the multifold manual packed with them
(5) When you are sure that your Cobalt iP Digital motor is centralised relative to
the hole and also aligned properly along the turnout axis, press it into position on
your baseboard. (it can face either way). You can now test its operation.
(6) If you are happy with operation, add the screws provided. Please note that if
you sealed the mounting area first, you can, if you wish, slacken or remove the
screws after 24 hours. This will further reduce noise transmission to the B/board.

Ahjay
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Bunkerbarge
I think with the SS motors because positioning is so critical and adjustment may be required I would prefer to stay with screws rather than the sticky pads.
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37011
I have two.  One is mounted at cork level as it can be disguised.  This works perfectly. The other I have mounted directly onto the baseboard but with cork and DCC underlay it sits 8mm below sleeper level.  This one is more temperamental but have used thicker wire than recommended so will use the recommended thickness to see whether this solves the problem.  Any other tips for mounting well below rail level or is this a bit of a no-no?  As with the OP have used the SS because of beam location. Cobalt Digital IPs everywhere else
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bigpom
I run 36 SS IP digital point motors on my layout. i have not had a problem with the positioning of them at all apart from being a pain in the butt to position under base boards while trying to stand on your head. I wired several in pairs ( facing points)  using cobalt classic lever switches to change them. I powered them with DC power and found that sometimes that a single point ( wired up as a pair ) would change on its on with no command what so ever . This issue was solved by putting diodes on the point motor wiring. I very recently put in my first surface mounted point. Very fiddly to set up but a great bit of gear if you cant get under the base board to put in an IP. Today we encountered a small problem. Trains are running fine but after X amount of laps the polarity of the point shifts all by its self even though the point is set the correct way. i tried adjusting the throw  but this did not fix the problem. Change the point direction and the problem disappears for a few circuits. Has any one else had this issue. 
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AHJAY
Are you using Cobalt SS or Cobalt iP Digital? It is not clear from your post.

If using both, what is controlling the point with the polarity problem?

Oh - and what scale are you using?

regards, Ahjay
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bigpom
I am lucky enough to be building a large layout in a converted double garage in eastern Australia. OO scale. All electronics ( point motors, switches, wire etc has come from dcc concepts. Controller is a NCE power cab . ( 5 amp power pro and dcc concepts booster waiting to go in at a later date. I run 36 cobalt IP digital point motors. Ten are wired in as a pair. ( 2 point motors controlled from one cobalt classic S lever switch) I did have a problem with a couple of the paired point motors a while ago. They would all work fine and then out of the blue one point motor ( in a paired set ) would change all by its self. At the time all the point motors were powered by a Cobalt PSU 2 dc power supply. After phone calls to the guys in Perth. Which I miss now that the whole operation has moved to the UK. This issue was fixed by placing diodes on the paired points motors. I never have had a problem with a single point operated by the S lever switch. Only the paired ones. I am now in the process of switching all the points by DCC power from the NCE power cab. This has gone well so far as long as you can remember what points you are switching when you cannot see them. I want to put more points in and cannot use the IP digital ones because where they will go i cannot fit under base board ones. I put in a cobalt surface mounted point and after a bit of trial and error got it to work well.The only problem is if you turn the power off and back on again the points stay in there last position but the polarity changes to the wrong side of the point. Switch the point over and everything works as it should. This problem only seems to happen when the power is turned off then back on. I changed the controller over but encountered the same problem. I am using dcc power and the power cab to move the point.  All works fine until you turn off the power. I hope this makes sense to you.
Regards Ian
PS I am running out of dropper wire. Do you still keep a stock in Australia or will it have to come from the UK.
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Andrew Fryer deepfat
hey Bigpom,  I hope all is well in Oz. I have a mix of SS & DIP motors like you but apart from screwing them down too hard I haven't seen this issue on my layout. I use Hornby Railmaster from a large touchscreen and that software enable me to group points together and setup a start position for all points when it starts.  That all works as expected and so I think there maybe something weird going on with your setup which the DCC Concpets wizards might be able to help with.
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bigpom
Thanks Andrew. It has certainty got me scratching my head. I can almost guarantee that it will be something i have done. Works well apart from the the polarity problem if you power off. Not to bad down here, but Victoria is doing it tough. Every man and his dog must have started a model rail layout in the last 3 months. I just tried to order some stuff out of Hattons of Liverpool and they have hardly any stock.
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m.bryan
Hi Ian,
There was software glitch in some of the CBSS control boards that can effect the memory of the frog relay switch at power off.
(The glitch has been resolved in further production)
It only shows if the CW/CCW switch is set to CCW.
Can you confirm if those that are losing frog polarity are set to CCW?

Best Regards
Mick
DCCConcepts Tech/Customer support
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bigpom
Spot on Mick. The control board was set at CCW. I have changed it over to CW. Tested the polarity, turned the power on and off tested again ( did this three or four times ) and glad to say that the problem seems to have gone.
Many thanks
Ian
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