Stuart Birks StuartB Show full post »
Mister Rusty
😉
I particularly like the detail of the re-pointed brickwork just under the eaves.
When was that repair done in real-life? 😉

It's all part of the characterization of a building, repairs go on throughout its life, and I'm as guilty as the next for creating a model on the day it was handed over, brand new. My colleagues at the club usually then ''grime'' it, paint apatch of different mortar, 'spill' some emulsion, mix a bit of tone into a wall's finish, etc.etc.
Also, rather than dabbing grime on to patches with a tissue, they'll create the tone by painting an area of brick, as if a different firing had been used
Griming should also be the last stage, after mortar, as in real-life.
I just wish my work was to your standard.
Pete
Bunkerbarge,
I am locked out, hooked up on your last message, this is the only way that l can get into the forum.
Anyone else having issues?
Please check.
Could anyone reading  this, please advise Jazavalley or another admin , thanks
Be careful, in case it's a virus. The message received is:-
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Pete
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Stuart Birks StuartB
Thanks for the coments.
I normally weather all my buildings with just about everything going, Dark washes to put dirt in the corners. Light dry brushing for fading and worn paintwork. Powders for other dirtying effects. Somehow with this one I have become nervous and dont want to mess it up so I will wait a bit to decide what to do. Part of that is because I find that the Precision Paints paint does not take a wash st all. Since it has a slightly gritty finish the whole area of paint takes the wash not just the corners.

On the engine shed doors I airbrushed on a layer of varnish first but I don't think I waited long enough for the varnish to fully harden, I should have waited a couple of weeks, so when I put on the wash the varnish softened and made a bit of a mess. It looks OK'ish but it was not what I was after.

The windows were simply done with using a bow pen to paint the lines then gluing some thin plastic on the back to give a bit of thickness. Normally I get some etches made but this seems to work well so I might use the method again.

Stu
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Bunkerbarge
Stuart you raise a couple of interesting points.  First up I agree that precision paints have a particularly matt finish.  This, as you say,  makes them challenging to apply washes to.  I only apply pin washes in recessed areas and immediately wipe over with a thinners dampened cloth to blend.  The advantage of course is that they take pigments really well so you have to take care not to overdo it.

As regards you lifting the varnish.  I always try wherever possible to apply a wash in a different paint to the base to avoid any degree of softening of the base.  As a very rough guide for 'hard' surfaces such as machinery or engines etc. I might use an acrylic base with an enamel wash over it as an enamel wash tends to have a slightly higher contrast that works better with hard surfaces.

For 'soft' surfaces such as canvas, clothing, sails etc. I might go for an enamel base with an acrylic wash over it as the acrylic wash tends to be less of a contrast, which blends a bit smoother and I can then dry brush a bit of lightened enamel to finish.  Just suggestions.  The important thing is that I try very much to avoid using the same paint as a wash to avoid softening the base.

Don't forget there are artists oil paints as well, which can go over either enamels or acrylics without disturbing them.

On LCC buildings I use a Humbrol acrylic red brick base, followed by an enamel mortar wash, wiped off the surface with a turps dampened rag.  Next dark pin washes in recessed areas and finish off with a bit of dry brushing and pigments.
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