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Bunkerbarge wrote:
It will make a lovely stand alone model, displayed on a short section of track.

Or behind a Dapol Jinty! 😁
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Hi jcm@gwr,

It's life will be mostly in a box - Although when allowed out it'll clank along behind my Dapol
Sentinel and the still to be looked at 12 ton fruit van. I'm planning on getting an open wagon
as well, initially a 16 ton steel mineral, but then thought a 7 plank timber might be more suitable.

As club chairman I decided we would have a '0' loop, now with a central optional plank that
will extend the 16 feet to 20 if we feel like it. There are 3 other members with some '0', one
is in fact a Dapol 08, the main 7 mm member has several locos, not like us paupers with our
minimum token gesture

I'm struggling with building the loop due to my inability to get more Peco track, but the basic
idea :-


I'm happy to admit to having a 'Butterfly Mind' and jumping from one project to another.
Currently wondering what I can do with 12 boxes of SMP '00' track - that's 360 feet ??
Recently inherited with an assortment of 'Stuff' including Peco code 75 3 way, double slip
and another 10 assorted points.
Whatever using it might cost me a fortune !!

Geoff T
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I recently got the Dapol Sentinel, Isebrook GWR No 2, lovely little loco, 
hopefully it'll finally get it's correct sound 'blown' on to the chip tomorrow.
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Hi jcm@gwr,

Sound ehh, I've thought about it, but the money would be spent better adding to a few more of my '00' fleet.

Curious to hear if you guard irons were O.K ?
Mine an early BR arrived with one broken off, it's matching compatriot broken, but hanging on by a 'thread'.
Rails had two replacements sent to me (Much easier than returning) that I fitted. Then one with the step
fell off and it's compatriot had already had a touch of superglue to secure the foot steps which were loose.
All easily enough to fix, but a little niggling.

I blame the overly tight foam packaging which has already been trimmed slightly with a scalpel and I'm
going to have another few subtle adjustments. I have to pack away as I have no personal '0' track and
no other suitable display space.

Back to wagons - fitted glazing last evening. I have no idea quite what the 'designers' had in mind with the
look-out windows, but the instructions say 10 x 4 mm. The actual window gaps are 5.5 x 4 mm. I suppose
one could fix down the inside, but it would then be quite recessed. Anyway if that's the only query for the
build instructions it's better than average.
Now have the paints I require so progress begins again.

Geoff T. 

Geoff T
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Hi Geoff,

Yes, I know it's not cheap to add sound!
The sound chip, including speaker, was about £100, ish. It came with a generic diesel sound,
which was re-blown with the correct sound, which was e-mailed across over the weekend.

I also picked up an Ixion Fowler recently, which is the next on the list for sound conversion.
The reason for this extravagance is that they are to used on an exhibition layout we (myself,
and 4 other club members) are building, I will reveal more later.
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Things have been taking longer than expected, but don't they always ?
It is getting near, this picture shows with buffers on and 3 links hanging.
Currently waiting for me to make up the side steps and more painting.


These come with quite complex brake fittings


I'm still more than a little concerned as to how I can paint and weather without jamming the un-sprung compensation.
Here we can see the available movement.



Will I finish this week ? I'd like to thinks so.

Geoff T.
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It is sometimes quite surprising how thin a film you can achieve with a light airbrushed coat of acrylic paint.  I'm sure you will be able to avoid interfering with the operation of the bearing box movement.
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Hi Bunkerbarge,

You know I've not used an airbrush for more than 10 years. Skill levels lost, and although there should be
a compressor and airbrush in the loft I'm not intending to get it out. I will however use acrylic paint around
the moving axle boxes as it doesn't creep as much as enamel and when dry doesn't remain sticky.

Now moving into the final stages, a point where the instructions seem to give up providing fine detail to
build advice. No mention of the length wire needed to act as the safety barrier. In fact here a cynical
comment, justified in my opinion. The VERY small parts used to make these up are rather casually passed 
over. Then I looked at the fine picture on the box top for a little confirmation of what was needed.

Note that they were not fitted !! Even two of the small 3 mm long very low grab handles were not in place although the
fixing holes are clearly there.


When I said the parts were small, here they are with the ring component being made up from two parts. A standard dressmaking
pin to show the scale. I needed to work on a piece of white paper as I often dropped them and couldn't afford to loose.


Now in place at both ends, I will leave one down with a vague intention of adding a figure at some time.


I've painted the underside of the roof white and may fix in place tomorrow. Ayway this is the other end with both safety
bars in place.


There is a fair amount of painting still to do before I can think of adding decals, but this is a complex and
comprehensive kit well worth the money. I just wish the instructions were perfect because it would be a shame
for builders to get things wrong, or worse give up !!

Geoff T.
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Hey, Hey, Roof on, with rain strips added - Oh yes note the kit's picture NO rain strips !!
To get the rain strips on in very accurate locations I made a small jig that held the fine microstrip
in a curve. I couldn't contemplate HOW you could do that by eye.

Lamp brackets all on, just two side lamps to paint and attach. Then the foot boards need painting
and attaching after tidying up the black chassis painting. Then, oh yes, not fully finished yet, I need
to gloss the van sides with Johnsons Clear and then add the decals. Most certainly the finishing line
is in sight


Geoff T.
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