Andrew akpatt Show full post »
JonD
Horses for courses I guess Bunkerbarge. I only need stay alives on my two 0-6-0 shunters. One is a Roco with a huge motor and incandescent lamps. This needs a super cap stay alive and even that barely gets it through a section of multiple insulfrog points and crossover. Also the loco has what I consider to be a poor system of electrical pick up from the wheels (unusual for Roco).  My other shunter is a Hornby with a motor out of an N scale and that works just fine over the same track with a very small home made stay alive.

Whereas my friend lives right on the ocean and track oxidisation is a constant battle.  Also his layout is full of inclines, curves and cambers that go from one direction to the other, causing some locos to lift wheels and stutter. He also uses insulfrog points throughout.  I have had to put high capacity stay alives in most of his locos to achieve reliable running. The small ones wouldn't "cut it".

But I agree that there seems little point in using high capacity stay alives in cases where small ones will do the job just fine.
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AHJAY
I do not disagree with you on the "run a few feet issue at all - however the market clearly asked for the larger size. Personally good maintenance + brown out protection is my own want/need... but I am not everyone :-)

Ahjay
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JonD

Somewhat related.....  I am currently experimenting with "in-loco cameras".  I'm using the FPV 5.8GHz system standard because there is so much of it available now, and at really good price.  I guess due to the current popularity of drones.  My smallest camera is only 6mm x 6mm and the transmitter board I am working with is 25 x 10mm (I have a smaller one on it's way), so I have been able to find space to fit them in a few locos for testing.   I started off with 12 x 12mm cameras and they were pretty good as well. 

100% perfect voltage to the camera etc is essential if you are not to get drop-outs and poor video.  Whilst a loco can get by with a short "brown-out" using a small stay alive, and helped  by the inertia of the motor, it's looking to me so far, that a high capacity stay alive is going to be very beneficial.(maybe essential)  to prevent interrupted or degraded video transmission.    

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AHJAY
Yep - I 100% agree with the 100% voltage for camera use. How about a small stack of rechargeables with a trickle-charging circuit? Failing that the larger SA unit is indeed an answer. (One of our mad scientist staff uses a camera car with its own power+radio control of camera angle... plus vehicle drive power via batteries. Kind of neat)

regards, Ahjay
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JonD
Good idea. Depending on the transmitter power (FPV systems seem to typically offer choices between 25mW and 800mW in transmitter power) it could be that something much smaller and lower cost than a large loco stay alive, and used solely to power the camera/transmitter,  could be all that's needed. I'll measure the current draw from the camera/transmitters I'm playing with.  That will give us a starting point.
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Andrew akpatt
Thanks for all your various comments, the subject of stay alives always seems to invite lively discussions. However amongst all that valuble information i didnt find an aswer to my original question, that of where do you connect a 2 wire stay alive to a V3.5 loksound decoder? I have info on the V4's and V5's but they are not the same as the V3.5. And I cant find info on them, not info that makes sense anyway.
I'm  hoping that some of you out there have succesfully done it and would like to part with the tecnical know how.  
Thanks in anticipation.
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AHJAY
The problem is that ESU do not publish the connection points for V3.5.
Please understand that made me a bit reluctant to discuss in detail as I/we cannot be responsible for any error that may be made / decoder damage that may accidentally happen when soldering to the ESU V3.5!

So... with that understanding - and the proviso that "Its your decoder" and I have NO responsibility in relation to your addition of the stay alive... Here are the connection points.

You need to connect the 2-wire SA to the +25v and GND.
Do not connect to the 5v terminal unless you have an original ESU 3-wire stay alive

v35 Stay Alive Connect.jpg 
Good luck
regards, Ahjay
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Andrew akpatt
Ah thankyou a nice simple straight forward answer. I had seen that on google but couldnt find out which teminal to connect too 5v or 25v thanks to you I know where to go now.
And yes I understand and appreciate the non liability thing. If I blow it up I can only blame my wife, ( but I wont get away with that either) ðŸ˜ƒ
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